2026 Manifesto

This will be the year of the extension, almost certainly.

Cycling

Maintain A-Group Fitness - all year

I was bullied/forced into riding in the Nova A-Group this summer, which was a real step-up in pace and intensity. I'm surviving so far, and I need to keep the fitness levels up to maintain that. This will require consistency throughout the year....volume, structure and frequency as an overall. When I started, I was wrecked on the following day (Sunday)...now I can get a second longer ride in, so need to maintain that, and make sure I've got the resilience built up.

Time Trials - Q2 and Q3

We go again, with the aim of winning a trophy (something I managed to just avoid in every category this year). I'm now in the Coffin Dodgers 50+ age group, though honestly the competition is just as hard.

Bike-packing - Prep Q1, ride Q2

In April I'll be doing my first bike-packing trip, riding from Harrogate to Belgium via the Hull-Rotterdam ferry, and doing the Tour of Flanders sportive. I need to re-spec the gravel bike into a road-tourer (I have a pile of vouchers for Restrap), and need to change various things (tyres, gearing, handlebars etc). I have a slowly expanding document for planning. I set off on 1st April, and goal is full completion (approx. 750-800km), but I've got various options in case the distance gets too tough, or weather doesn't play ball.

If it all goes well, I might try an overnight trip to the west coast in Q3 (stretch goal).

Retire the PlanetX Commuter - Q1

I've not used it since I moved here, and it's been partially disassembled to cannibalize parts for other bikes. Strip off all parts, and bin the frame (clearing up space). I've drilled the frame to run cables internally, so it's unsellable. Should be done alongside the gravel-bike re-work.

Retire Wattbike - Q3/Q4

I'm not 100% on this yet. I bought my Wattbike second-hand from British Cycling in 2013, and it's done a lot, and is showing it. The CMOS battery in the head-unit is gone, so no longer remembers settings. I'm unable to get spares, and the cranks are rusted to all hell. It's noisy, and the bodywork has cracked (taped up). I have an option to retire it, buy a modern direct-drive turbo-trainer, and attach my old Canyon (the one I broke my pelvis on) as a trainer. This would effectively clear a second bike from the rack that is not being used (and is also partially disassembled). The Wattbike is, however, bullet-proof. It's been incredibly reliable, and still performs it's prime function.

Beekeeping - Q2 onwards

We should be getting one or two colonies this year. I need to;

  • Build hive stands
  • Complete the course (theory stage 2 in Q1)
  • Get 1 or 2 colonies installed in the hives
  • Harvest honey in ~September

Extension - Q1 and Q2

We have a provisional start date of mid-February. We need to complete requirements (kitchen design, electrical layout, floor spec).
We need to survive the 14-16 weeks of the house being torn apart while we work inside (and with no kitchen/washing machine)
We'll need to sort out the garden once complete (assuming lawn will be wrecked)

As a stretch goal I'd like to get the driveway redone (currently gravel, I want block-paving)
As a stretch goal sort out the dogs room (remove shelving, plaster wall, move radiator to opposite wall and fit dog crates under desk. Wall mount TV on opposite wall)

The solar panels and heat pump have had to be delayed, probably until I retire and have access to a lump sum.

Finances - all year

The "big" stuff is done, so now this is about finessing, as well as a bit of rationalisation.

  • No big bike purchases - I've spent a lot on bikes in the last couple of years, getting the fleet adapted to Yorkshire. No big purchases this year
  • I did a complete tech refresh in 2025. No big tech purchases this year
  • Do a full review of 2025 spending in Q1, and identify areas where savings can be made. This is much easier than when I last did it, as 99% of spending is now on card/app
  • From Q2 onwards implement a savings schedule for 9 months

Project-55 remains on-target.

Tech - all year

  • Complete the migration to a FLAC music library. As a reward, once done get some LDAC compatible headphones (currently using SBC)
  • Get Immich up and running on the in-house servers. THis is the last major self-hosting of media that I need to do.
  • Look into basic PETG printing. This will mostly be looking into a moisture-proof spool system.

Health

A new category. In November I had a bit of a scare when a molar exploded, and then got infected. I ended up in A&E on a drip for a few hours, and for a week I was only able to eat via a straw...it all culminated in a weekend out of my face on Tramadol to keep me sane while the antibiotics did their thing. It's been fixed now (nerve killed, abscess drained, root canal done and filled...still need to get it crowned), but it's made me aware that many of my systems are reaching end-of-life. My teeth are atrocious...the period from uni to my 30's of abusing them and living off Red Bull has come back to bite me. My eyesight has gone...from perfect vision in 2020 to +2.5 now. My hearing is going (the partial cause of the tinnitus I got when I got taken of the bike). We are not evolved to live this long, and it's clear a lot of the organs that we rely on are starting to age and fail.

  • Teeth still need a lot of work. Start getting it done
  • Investigate what supplements work for me

To clarify that second one, I'm not talking about vitamins, or stuff you should be getting day-to-day in your diet. This is more about performance, and keeping systems running.

I've already started this, with Magnesium at night (to assist with sleep), Nitrates before exercise, and also Creatine (muscle repair, and some unproven stuff around cognitive performance).

Generally, a good diet will help the various systems work well, however I shall investigate (and navigate the snake-oil nonsense) where I can gain definitive benefits.

Comments

What a read! Thoroughly impressed by it all. Mine will appear much more - errrrr... ragged!

I've spent thousands on my teeth and there's thousands more to go. My right canine is actually a baby tooth that's holding on for dear life.

I desperately want to do some low key bikepacking (will also be shopping at restrap, I have savings!) but more on that in my own post shortly.

brainwipe's picture

I've spent some of the colder period sorting out the modification of the gravel-bike into a super-tourer. Apart from bar-tape (thought I had some, annoyingly I'd used one roll to correct a mistake about a year ago...more on order) it's ready for a test run next weekend.

  • Gearing is now 50T on the front, and 11/46 on the back (12-speed), still with the L-Twoo eGR groupset.
  • Tyres are now 44mm Rene Herse Snoqualmie Pass Extralight road slicks. These are niche, and had them on order a year ago, as they are made in small batches. Set up tubeless, and running at 40psi while it settle in, probably dropping to 35psi once the tubeless seal is confirmed.
  • In combination this gives me a gear range of 2.42 to 10.14 metres of progression. This compares to my road bike with 2.26 to 10.07 metres of progression (on 28mm tyres running at 60psi)
  • Handlebars swapped to 36cm carbon bars (38 on the drops)...previously these were 40 on the hoods and 56cm on the drops. This drops weight, and will make it significantly faster aerodynamically. I normally ride 36cm bars, so this is also more comfortable.
  • Pedals swapped from SPD's to Look Keos, as I'm not intending on hike-a-biking, this will be tarmac bikepacking.
  • I've left the Redshift ShockStop stem on it, as this should make it a super-comfy ride. If I find it annoying, it's a quick job to swap this to a normal 110mm stem.

I've also cashed in my crimble Restrap vouchers, and got;

  • An 18-litre saddlebag
  • A 14-litre handlebar bag
  • A 1.5 litre top-tube bag

I decided against front fork bags and a frame bag. These worked out expensive per litre in terms of storage. The front fork bags would have had a big impact on speed, and the frame bag would have meant I'd also need to change my bottle cages to side-entry (which I'm not a fan of, as well as increasing costs even more). 34-35 litres should be more than enough for a week of staying in hotels and ferries.

The plan is to do a test ride to Grassington next Sunday. It's about a 100km loop, with sigificantly more climbing than I'll be facing in Belgium. I'll pootle up Wharfdale, stop for a tea/pastry, then tackle the prolonged climb upto Greenhow (which includes a couple of cheeky ramps to make sure that I can deal with the weight and gearing.

babychaos's picture

Excellent setup! I am going a similar way with my Restrap purchases. The only one I might add is a cockpit pouch for snacks.

Are you a fan of Redshift generally? I was wondering whether to get a stem with a bit of rise or go the whole hog and get the topshelf handle bars. A riser stem might be a better start.

brainwipe's picture

I think Redshift spend a lot on advertising. I got the ShockStop stem as it was a solution to a problem (a crutch to help my lack of off-road arm and wrist strength). It's not a new idea, there were Softride stems in the 90's, before suspension forks were introduced. The other option I had for a gravel bike was a Lauf fork, however the cost was 8x more, and I'd had mixed feedback from them, mostly around how they impact cornering. The ShockStem is/was OK, but far more of a faff to install than they claim (down to counting exact numbers of rotations of a long threaded bolt)

I don't think much of their other products. The suspension seat post is not really viable for anything ridden on tarmac, as it will impact pedal-to-saddle distances, which can in turn fuck up yer knees (same reason you don't have a cushioned saddle). The TopShelf bar is incredibly heavy, and way too wide for me (41cm being the narrowest). Canyon tried something a few years ago, and it was universally unpopular, so they discontinued it after one product cycle. I generally have my handebars clear of gubbins...an outfront Garmin mount, and if absolutely required a light mounted underneath that. Handlebars are for hands.

Personally, if you are finding the handlebars a bit low, going for a stem with a bit of rise is the easiest and cheapest way of adjusting reach. Swapping handlebars also means moving shifters, re-cabling and re-doing bar tape. If the handlebars have internal routing (as mine do) then you're also disconnnecting/reconnecting to shifters (biggest win of the past week for me was getting the hydraulics disconnected and reconncted without having to re-bleed the system). Swapping a stem is 5 minutes with hex wrenches, and if/when you improve flexibility, it's easily reversible. Looking at pictures of your bike on Strava, I can see you already have probably the maximum number of spacers under the stem. Tricky to say with flared handlebars, but they might be pointing down slightly? Loostening the faceplate bolts and rotating the bars so the hoods are slightly higher may help? (the end of the drops should be parallel to the floor...again, it might be angles and the handlebar flare, but it all looks slightly upward pointing). Generally, the drop (height the saddle is above the handlebars) is fairly conservative from what I can see. Otherwise, your stem should say somewhere on it it's length (in mm) and the current rise/drop (in degrees). I'd guess at 80mm +6'. You can find stems with an angle of upto 30', though with a shorter stem, the overall height gain will be a bit limted.

More generally, basic core strength and flexibility helps no end. You're younger than me, and have all the bits of your spine. Do some basic stretches with the aim of touching your toes, and this will definitely assist with comfort on the bike.

babychaos's picture

LOL you're younger than me - posted exactly one week before your birthday!

brainwipe's picture

Riser is the way to go - nice and cheap. I have adjusted the tilt of the bars up and down but couldn't get comfy. I think an angled riser is the way to go. I can get a cheap one to check the angle and then splash out if need be.

brainwipe's picture